HallPass Mini Operator Manual
Download printable manual (PDF)
Hardware Rev C.1, firmware 1.12. Questions: info@rvtesters.com
Why HallPass Mini?
How a slide or leveling system works
Every electric slide and electric leveling system has three main parts:
- The controller. This is the brain. It sends power to the motor and listens for pulses coming back.
- The harness. These are the wires that run through the walls and floor of the coach, from the controller to the motor.
- The motor. Inside the motor is a small hall sensor. As the motor turns, a magnet spins past the sensor, and the sensor sends a quick on-off signal back to the controller. Each on-off is called a pulse.
The controller counts those pulses. That is how it knows the motor is turning, how fast, and how far. On a slide with two motors, the pulses are how the controller keeps both ends moving together.
If the pulses stop, the controller thinks something is wrong and shuts the system down. That is when the owner calls you.
The old way to find the problem
When pulses go missing, the problem can be in any of the three parts: the controller, the harness, or the motor. Finding out which one has always been slow.
- A regular meter cannot see pulses that come hundreds of times a second.
- Testing each part means unplugging everything and checking pieces one at a time.
- Too often, the answer is to replace a part and hope. Replacing a good controller or motor costs time, money, and the owner's trust.
The HallPass Mini way
The HallPass Mini runs the motor and watches the hall sensor pulses at the same time. You can test at two places:
- At the controller: Plug into the harness where it meets the controller. If pulses come back, the harness and the motor are both good, and the problem is the controller.
- At the motor: Plug straight into the motor. If pulses come back here but not at the controller, the motor is good and the problem is the harness in the wall. If no pulses come back here while the motor turns, the problem is the hall sensor in the motor. If the motor will not turn at all and pulls no amps, the problem is inside the motor itself.
Two plug-ins and a few seconds of run time tell you which part has failed: controller, harness, or motor. No guessing, and no replacing good parts.
What it does for your business
- Faster diagnosis. Find the bad part in minutes instead of hours.
- Fewer wasted parts. Only replace what has actually failed.
- Repair instead of replace. When the hall sensor is bad, swap the hall sensor board instead of the whole motor (see section 9).
-
Proof for the owner. The phone report shows what you tested, both directions, with a clear verdict for every run. The owner can see the reason for the repair.
What you see on your phone: live pulse counts for Hall A and Hall B, how fast they are pulsing, and the actual square-wave signal from each hall sensor. - Better warranty claims. A written record of what the motor was doing helps support a claim.
- Live amps. See how hard the motor is working, so you can spot a binding slide before it becomes a bigger problem.
- Works with or without a phone. The lights on the tool give a quick answer. The phone gives the full report.
1. Read this first
⚠ Important: read before using
For qualified RV service technicians only. The HallPass Mini is a diagnostic tool made for trained RV service technicians who understand slide, leveling, and motor systems. It is not made for RV owners or untrained users.
For testing only. The HallPass Mini tests hall sensors and wiring for a few seconds at a time. It does not replace a slide controller, leveling controller, or any other control system. Do not use it to operate a slide, jack, or motor in normal use, and do not leave it installed in an RV.
It does not protect the equipment. The HallPass Mini skips the RV's built-in safety stops. The technician is responsible for every movement made during a test.
⚠ The HallPass Mini skips all of the RV's safety protections
The slide or jack controller normally stops a motor at the end of its travel, or when something is wrong. When you test with the HallPass Mini, nothing stops the motor except you.
Only run motors in the middle of their travel.
- Never run a slide all the way out or all the way in.
- Never run a jack all the way up or all the way down.
- Stop well before the end every time.
You only need a few seconds. Run the motor about 3 seconds in one direction, then about 3 seconds in the other direction. That is enough. There is no reason to run a motor longer than that.
Electric jacks: never lift the coach. The HallPass Mini is not built to lift a coach off the ground. Test a jack one of these two ways:
- Best way: Take the jack motor and gearbox off the jack leg. Lay it on the ground and run it with nothing attached.
- Other way: Run the jack in the middle of its travel, with the jack foot in the air. Do not let the jack foot touch the ground.
Watch the amps. This tool is made for motors running with very little load. If the motor pulls more than 10 amps while it runs, it is working too hard. Stop right away. Running under heavy load can burn up the HallPass Mini. If the power light on the tool turns amber while the motor runs, stop.
What this tool is for Running a motor with almost no load, so you can see if its hall sensor sends pulses back to the controller. That tells you if the hall sensor is the reason for the fault.
2. What you need
- HallPass Mini with its 6-pin cable
- CODDIWOMPLE, to power the HallPass Mini and run the motor
- The adapter for the job (see section 6). Each one has a heat shrink label that starts with "Hall Pass Mini."
- A phone with a web browser. This is optional. You can do a quick test with no phone at all.
3. Know your tool
The three lights are on the left side of the face, top to bottom:
- PWR / FAULT: The tool is on. It changes color to warn you (see section 7).
- HALL A: Flickers when pulses come back on the Hall A wire.
- HALL B: Flickers when pulses come back on the Hall B wire.
The two QR codes are near the bottom:
- DIDN'T OPEN? SCAN: Opens the HallPass Mini screen on your phone, if it did not open by itself.
- USER MANUAL: Opens this manual online.
The 8-pin plug comes out of the top end of the tool, next to the small notch. Every adapter plugs in here.
The 6-pin cable plugs into the M2 port on the CODDIWOMPLE.
4. Hooking it up
- Plug the HallPass Mini's 6-pin cable into the M2 port on the CODDIWOMPLE. This gives the HallPass Mini power, and lets the CODDIWOMPLE run the motor.
- Turn the CODDIWOMPLE rotary switch to CH1. The HallPass Mini turns on and the PWR / FAULT light comes on green. OFF turns the HallPass Mini off. The other switch positions are for other tests and are not used here.
- Plug the adapter for the job into the 8-pin plug on the top of the HallPass Mini. Read the heat shrink label to pick the right one. Section 6 explains every adapter.
- Plug the other end of the adapter in where its label says. "At Controller" means into the coach harness at the controller. "At Motor" means straight into the motor.
You are now ready to test. Use the quick test (section 5A) or the full test with your phone (section 5B).
5A. Quick test, no phone needed
You can test with just the lights on the tool.
- Hold the CODDIWOMPLE M2 switch one way for about 3 seconds. Watch the HALL A and HALL B lights.
- Hold the M2 switch the other way for about 3 seconds. Watch the lights again.
- Check the table below. It shows which lights should flicker for the motor you are testing.
| What you are testing | HALL A | HALL B | Why |
|---|---|---|---|
| SlimRack, at the controller | Flickers | Flickers | SlimRack motors have two hall sensors, and the harness carries both. |
| SlimRack, at the motor | Flickers | Flickers | SlimRack motors have two hall sensors. |
| Schwintek bed tilt or TV lift | Flickers | Flickers | These motors use two hall sensors. |
| Schwintek slide, at the controller | Flickers | Watch A only | The Schwintek slide harness in the wall has only five wires: two motor wires, hall power, hall ground, and Hall A. There is no Hall B wire, so Hall B will stay dark. That is normal. |
| Schwintek slide, at the motor | Flickers | Flickers | The motor itself has all six wires, so both lights should flicker. The controller only uses Hall A. |
| Electric leveling (BAL or Lippert Ground Control), at the motor | Flickers | Watch A only | These systems only use Hall A. Hall B will almost always stay dark. That is normal. |
What the lights tell you The light you are watching flickers while the motor runs: the hall sensor is sending pulses. It is working.
The light you are watching stays dark while the motor is turning: no pulses are coming back. Use section 6 to find out if the problem is the motor or the wiring in the wall.
The faster the motor turns, the faster the light flickers.
The light you are watching stays dark while the motor is turning: no pulses are coming back. Use section 6 to find out if the problem is the motor or the wiring in the wall.
The faster the motor turns, the faster the light flickers.
5B. Full test with your phone
The phone gives you more: a written verdict for every run, the waveform, the amps, and a report you can show the RV owner.
Connect your phone
- Open Wi-Fi on your phone and pick the network named "HallPass Mini 192.168.4.1." There is no password. The HallPass Mini screen opens by itself.
- If the screen does not open by itself, scan the DIDN'T OPEN? SCAN QR code on the tool. Or open your web browser and type 192.168.4.1.
Your phone will say "No Internet Connection." That is normal. The HallPass Mini makes its own small Wi-Fi network so your phone can talk to it. That network does not go to the internet, so other apps and websites will not work while you are connected. When you are done, switch back to your usual Wi-Fi.
Pick the motor type
At the top of the screen is the motor type box. Pick the motor you are testing. Some motors have one hall sensor and some have two. If the tool expects two on a motor that only has one, it would report a problem that is not really there.
| What you are testing | Pick this motor type | Lights the tool checks |
|---|---|---|
| Schwintek slide | Schwintek slide | Hall A only |
| Schwintek bed tilt | Schwintek bed tilt | Hall A and Hall B |
| Schwintek TV lift | Schwintek bed tilt | Hall A and Hall B |
| SlimRack slide | SlimRack | Hall A and Hall B |
| Lippert Ground Control electric leveling | Ground Control 3.0 | Hall A only |
| BAL electric leveling | Ground Control 3.0 | Hall A only |
| Something else with one hall sensor | Other, one channel | Hall A only |
| Something else with two hall sensors | Other, two channels | Hall A and Hall B |
When only Hall A is checked, the Hall B box on the screen turns gray and says NOT USED. Hall B will never be reported as a problem.
Run the test
- Hold the CODDIWOMPLE M2 switch one way for about 3 seconds. Watch the screen. The Hall A box (and Hall B, if it is checked) should say ACTIVE.
- Let the motor stop. Then hold the M2 switch the other way for about 3 seconds. The tool saves each run by itself when the motor stops.
- Scroll down to Run history. Every run has its own card with a verdict, which way the motor turned, the waveform, and the numbers.
What the verdicts mean
| Verdict | What it means |
|---|---|
| Good pattern | Every hall sensor the motor should have sent pulses the whole time, and the amps stayed where they should. Nothing to fix. |
| Check this | The motor ran, but something about the run is not right. Look into it before it turns into a callback. |
| Fault found | A hall sensor never sent pulses, or the motor stalled. This needs repair. |
What the messages mean
| Message on the screen | What it means and what to check |
|---|---|
| Hall A never pulsed during this run | The Hall A sensor sent nothing at all. Check the Hall A sensor, the Hall A wire back to the plug, and the pins in the adapter. |
| Hall B never pulsed during this run | The Hall B sensor sent nothing at all. Check the Hall B sensor, the Hall B wire back to the plug, and the pins in the adapter. |
| Hall A had a gap in its pulses mid-run | The Hall A sensor worked, stopped partway through, then came back. This is usually a rubbed-through wire, a loose pin, or a sensor that is going bad. This is the kind of problem that comes and goes. |
| Hall B had a gap in its pulses mid-run | The Hall B sensor worked, stopped partway through, then came back. This is usually a rubbed-through wire, a loose pin, or a sensor that is going bad. This is the kind of problem that comes and goes. |
| The two channels counted different amounts | Both sensors sent pulses, but one missed some. The motor may still move, but the controller will slowly get out of step. |
| Stalled | The amps stayed high instead of dropping after the start. Stop and check the slide or jack for something binding before you run it again. |
| Ran high the whole way | The motor pulled too many amps the whole run. Look for a binding slide, a dry rail, or something out of adjustment. |
| Supply voltage dropped below the set warning level | The power feeding the test got too low. Check the battery and the connections before you trust the rest of the run. |
A quick jump in amps right at the start is normal Every healthy motor pulls a big burst of amps for a split second when it starts. The tool knows this and does not call it a stall. A stall is when the amps stay high.
Show the owner a report
- Type the unit, customer name, or work order in the box. It prints at the top of the report.
- Tap "Report for screenshot." The screen changes to a clean white report with every run on it.
- Take a screenshot. On an iPhone, press the side button and the volume up button at the same time. On most Android phones, press the power button and the volume down button at the same time. The picture saves to your photos, so you can text it or email it.
Before you start on a different RV, tap "Clear runs." That wipes the list so the next report only shows the next job.
6. The adapters
Every adapter has an 8-pin plug on one end. That end always plugs into the top of the HallPass Mini. The heat shrink label tells you where the other end goes.
Hall Pass Mini Schwintek at Controller
- Unplug the motor harness from the slide controller.
- Plug the adapter into that harness.
- Plug the other motor into M1 on the CODDIWOMPLE, using the adapter that came with your CODDIWOMPLE kit.
- Run the slide out for about 3 seconds, then in for about 3 seconds. Stay in the middle of its travel.
- Hall A flickers: The motor and the wiring in the wall are both good.
- Hall A stays dark: Something is wrong between here and the motor. Use the Hall Pass Mini Schwintek at Motor adapter to find out where.
Hall Pass Mini Schwintek at Motor (small flat 6-pin plug)
- Unplug the motor at the motor.
- Plug the adapter's small flat 6-pin plug straight into the motor.
- Run the motor in one direction for about 3 seconds, then the other direction for about 3 seconds.
- Pulses here, but none at the controller: The motor is good. The wiring in the wall is bad.
- No pulses here, and the motor is turning: The hall sensor inside the motor is bad. You may not need a new motor. The hall sensor board can be replaced by itself (see section 9).
- No pulses and no amps, and the motor does not turn: The power is not making it through the motor. The windings or the brushes inside the motor are bad, or there is a bad connection right at the motor plug. There is almost nothing between the HallPass Mini and the motor here, so the problem is in the motor or its plug.
Hall Pass Mini SlimRack at Controller (square 6-pin plug)
- Unplug the motor harness from the slide controller.
- Plug the adapter's square 6-pin plug into that harness.
- Plug the other motor into M1 on the CODDIWOMPLE, using the SlimRack adapter that came with your kit. Now both motors run together.
- Run the slide out for about 3 seconds, then in for about 3 seconds. Stay in the middle of its travel.
- Hall A and Hall B flicker: The motor and the wiring in the wall are both good.
- Hall A or Hall B stays dark: Something is wrong between here and the motor. Use the Hall Pass Mini SlimRack at Motor adapter to find out where.
Hall Pass Mini SlimRack at Motor (square 6-pin plug)
- Unplug the motor at the motor.
- Plug the adapter's square 6-pin plug straight into the motor.
- Run the motor in one direction for about 3 seconds, then the other direction for about 3 seconds.
- Pulses here, but none at the controller: The motor is good. The wiring in the wall is bad.
- No pulses here, and the motor is turning: The hall sensor inside the motor is bad. You may not need a new motor. The hall sensor board can be replaced by itself (see section 9).
- No pulses and no amps, and the motor does not turn: The power is not making it through the motor. The windings or the brushes inside the motor are bad, or there is a bad connection right at the motor plug. There is almost nothing between the HallPass Mini and the motor here, so the problem is in the motor or its plug.
Hall Pass Mini Electric Leveling at Motor (2-pin gray and 3-pin gray plugs)
Works on BAL and Lippert Ground Control electric leveling. Remember: never lift the coach (section 1).
- Unplug the motor and its sensor at the motor.
- Plug the adapter's 2-pin gray plug into the motor.
- Plug the adapter's 3-pin gray plug (the triangle-shaped one) into the sensor.
- Run the motor in one direction for about 3 seconds, then the other direction for about 3 seconds.
- Hall A flickers: The motor and its sensor are good. The problem is in the wiring or the controller.
- Hall A stays dark, and the motor is turning: The sensor at the motor is bad.
- No pulses and no amps, and the motor does not turn: The power is not making it through the motor. The windings or the brushes inside the motor are bad, or there is a bad connection right at the motor plug. There is almost nothing between the HallPass Mini and the motor here, so the problem is in the motor or its plug.
Testing at the motor with only one motor running If you cannot run the other motor from M1, it is OK to run just one motor for a moment, long enough to see the pulses. Keep it short. Do not run one motor by itself for long.
7. The lights
| Light | What it means |
|---|---|
| PWR / FAULT, green | The tool is on and working normally. |
| PWR / FAULT, amber | The motor is pulling high amps while it runs. Stop the motor. |
| PWR / FAULT, blinking amber | The power coming in is too low. |
| PWR / FAULT, blinking red | The motor stalled. Press the button on the tool to clear it. |
| PWR / FAULT, red and pink | Hall power has been turned off on the phone screen. |
| HALL A | Flickers with the pulses on the Hall A wire. Dark means no pulses on Hall A. |
| HALL B | Flickers with the pulses on the Hall B wire. Dark means no pulses on Hall B. |
The button
- Press it quickly to clear a warning and reset the highest amps reading.
- Hold it for about 2 seconds to reset the amp meter to zero. Only do this when the motor is stopped.
8. If something does not look right
| What you see | What to do |
|---|---|
| The PWR / FAULT light is off | Check that the 6-pin cable is all the way into M2, and that the CODDIWOMPLE rotary switch is on CH1. |
| The HallPass Mini Wi-Fi does not show up on your phone | Check that the PWR / FAULT light is on. If it is off, check the 6-pin cable and the CH1 switch. |
| The screen did not open by itself | Scan the DIDN'T OPEN? SCAN QR code on the tool, or type 192.168.4.1 in your web browser. |
| The screen will not load | Make sure your phone is still on the HallPass Mini Wi-Fi. Phones sometimes jump back to your usual Wi-Fi by themselves. Then type 192.168.4.1 again. |
| Hall A and Hall B say NO SIGNAL with the motor stopped | This is normal. Hall sensors only send pulses while the motor turns. |
| Hall B says NOT USED | This is normal when the motor type only uses Hall A. If the motor has two hall sensors, pick the right motor type at the top of the screen. |
| A run did not show up in Run history | Runs shorter than about one third of a second are skipped on purpose. Run the motor a little longer. |
| Rotation says "unclear" | The motor did not pull enough amps for the tool to tell which way it turned. This usually means it barely moved. |
A good habit Always run the motor in both directions, even if the problem only happens one way. It takes a few more seconds, and the report shows the owner that the motor was checked both ways.
9. Replacement hall sensor boards
When the HallPass Mini shows that the hall sensor inside the motor is bad, you do not always need a new motor. SkillAbove sells replacement hall sensor boards that bring the old motor back to life.
| Motor | Board | Fits |
|---|---|---|
| Schwintek | Hall Sensor Board With Leads | Schwintek 300 to 1 motors (part number ending in 575) and Schwintek 500 to 1 motors (part number ending in 298). View this board |
| SlimRack | Double Hall Sensor Board With Plug | SlimRack motors. View this board |